January 1976




3rd Jan 76

Bill, Pete, Mark, Simon, Self, off to Anglesey in search of milder weather. Arrived to find no rain but fantastically strong winds blowing halfway up Gogarth, decided to do Dirtigo. After 45 mins we spent on first pitch - due to frozen fingers - party was thinned down to Simon & Mark, Bill went for a walk along to South Stack, and Pete over to the inland crags. Bill was waiting at the top of Dirtigo, smiling, in his nice warm parka. Simon and Mark were hardly able to speak from cold. On the walk back to the car we noticed that Bill was staggering. This was due to the enormous amount of gear he had "picked up" on his walk along the top "it was just lying there". No wonder he was smiling! No sign of Pete at the car so went for tea at the cafe. Pete arrived and we set off for Caer Fran via Ian Wright's (more tea). When we got back Ian arrived at the hut having been on "patrol" in the area (even more tea). Fred spent the day with Nick bagging coke and carrying from Llanberis.


4th Jan 76

Rain again! Bill went home, Nick, Di and kids Pete & Mark went to Bethesda. Fred & Simon tidied hut and Fred installed a new light in front room.


16th Jan 1976

Dave and Barb arrived at hut after cocktails at Cobdens, and, after tea and crumpets (the edible kind) retired to bed.


17th Jan 1976

Arose to find it NOT raining. For the benefit of cynics and non believers I'll repeat that. Arose to find it NOT raining. The hour was 9.30 am. I'll repeat that for all cynics and none believers, (notable Phil Scratton). The hour was 9.30am. We indulged in a large breakfast and set out for Ogwen. Still not raining. However Barb has not stopped talking since we left Liverpool 8.00pm last night. Come back Al Brown all is forgiven.

Proceeded to stick Glyder Fach under our belts via Bristly Ridge, which after Barb's first visit should be called "Barb's Dilemma" sorry about the spelling folks. We next stuck Glyder Fawr under our belts meeting a sorry looking party on the top. Next to fall to this intrepid but unfortunately still nattering party was Y Garn. And so to the tea shack were Barb managed to do a Dennis Spicer and down a cup of tea in seconds while still talking. Bill Sutherland, Trevor and Simon, John, Mark and any other bachelors within the club please note she'll make somebody a wonderful wife!!!!

And so back to the hut where we had the onerous task of finishing off a litre of Risling as nobody else had arrived to help us drink it or to listen to Barb talking. NB Barb has talked for 22hrs 33 minutes 31 seconds, this surely must be a qualification for the Guiness Book Of Records, Al Brown and Phil Scratton excluded.

Finally the Spaghetti Bolognese a la Barb Mac was fantastic, as I said she'll make sombody a wonderful wife.

Alan Stuart arrived shortly after we had finished dinner and wine and promptly set about cooking himself something while running on the spot. Barbara was truly amazed at this (could be Alan who is going to have a wonderful nattering wife, I hope!!).

After watching Alan eat his tea while still running on the spot (mind you he's slowed down these days he's only 15 steps a second now) we set off for a pint or three in the Dolbadarn. Alan set off for bed at double time.


18th Jan 1976

Dawn broke with Alan presenting us with a cup of tea (while running on the spot) and he promptly disappeared into the distance of what promised to be a reasonable day. NB 36 hours and we've not got a single article of wet clothing between us!!

Had breakfast and set out for an easier day by unpopular demand from Barbara and decided on the Carnedds and a brush up on compass work.

Anyway readers we'll see you all at the dinner next week, that's providing it's deduct 8 degrees, or is it add 8 degrees, oh to hell with it let's go home and watch the football match like all the human beings do!

Happy New Year to one and all.

Dave & Barb

P.S. Raining on Mac's track, raining heavier on track to Black Ladders. Returning home via delights of Conway and coast road. It stopped raining for 11/2 hours and so we stopped at Trefrew and went to Crafnant for a pleasant jaunt and ever pleasanter views of Snowdon.

Lots of Love

Dave & Barb


24 Jan 1976

Club Dinner

El Presidente (and Dave Graham) got smashed out of his tiny mind,

Well done Pres

Weather cold and glorious, ice everywhere.


31 st Jan 1976

Barb, Lin, Mark & Simon (Mark Spitz and friend, read on folks, story to follow) and Dave the level headed one!!

Extremely cold, not as much snow as last week but stacks of ice.

Mark and Simon went to Cyrn Las and pottered about actually climbing, and not inclusive of flippers and snorkle, story to follow folks.

Barb, Lin and Dave after getting stove going went up Moel Eilio and down Telegraph Col, tremendous views everywhere.

Back to hut for tea where we were joined by Alan, Marg, Sam, Jim, Ian who had been to Cyrn Las waterfall avoiding Mark Spitz & Co fortunately (story to follow folks).

Jim Kelly and very quiet chum also arrived. Chaos in kitchen and off to Padarn for well earned pint.



February 1976



1st Feb 1976

Sunday, wind has dropped, and so Mark Spitz and Co & Dave G (very reluctantly tied to the end of a rope) head for the Trinities and completed Central Gully in reasonable condition (remember folkes story to follow). Bloody cold on Yr Wyddfa but saved by RAF rations thanks Ian. Alan and Mates went to the Black Ladders and did something sensible in Llech Ddu Cwm.

Now for the story folks

as promised numerous times during this pleasant narrative.

Mark Spitz & Co finally deserting the intrepid leadership of their unwilling partners decided instead of coming down P y G track to attempt a qualifying time for the forthcoming Olympic 100 metres free style over Llyn Llydaw. I'll repeat that folks over Llyn Llydaw complete with packs. The water was chest deep and very cold & Mark Spitz & Co complained bitterly that their new boots let in water.

End of story. All true

Signed Dave Graham

Message for Pres. What about a prize at the next dinner. How about ice axes attached to inflatable dingies and marked in fathoms.

The sensible and good looking members of the party walked to Telegraph Col and back down Cwm thingy at the start of the steep section of the Snowdon Ranger Track.

Bye folks see you at Brackenclose don't forget your water wings.

Dave & team & Co belongs to the nameless fool i.e. "Tonto" Lewis.


Feb 28

Another fun start to the weekend. After a reasonably early start from Liverpool, picking up Mark and Simon en route, we were merrily trundling through Llanferres where bang! the clutch cable went. Simon and Mark the clubs hard men (?), decided that they couldn't miss climbing in the beautiful weather which Wales, for a change, was offering, hitched onwards. After waiting 11/4hrs at Ruthin they were finally picked up by Anne Maloney. Arriving in the Pass they did Ribstone Crack. Meanwhile Al & Marg waited 3 hours for the AA to justify their enormous yearly fee, which they did.

We arrived late out here about 4.15 and went for a quiet walk up to the quarries. After eating a much needed drink was downed in the Padarn.


Feb 29

Up at a fantastically early hour. Ready for off by 10.00am. Going to Wenallt to do Ferdinand etc. See you soon.

Al, Marg, Simon & Mark



March 1976



March 6



Arrived Fri night with minibus engine in flames! Woke up saturday and found minibus leaking water pump. Oh! for an old van, this one has yet to complete 4000 miles.

After visit to Snowdon Garage proceeded to P y G thence onto Glyders - Cwm Cneifio - Nant Peris. Supreme weather with cool wind. An excellent intro to Snowdonia for the lads.

Sunday - walk behind Caer Fran up hill. Every effort being made to drown somebody in stream. Thanks to M.M.C. for use of hut.

J Mc Bean


March 20 76

Large group at hut. Dave G & friends, John Mc B and friend, Simon & Trevor.

Sat morning - up early! Simon & Trevor for Pass, John & Colin for Tryfan, Dave G & Parky up Mac's track to both Carnedds.

Simon & Trev did Trilon, Erosion Groove & Ribstone Crack. John & Colin - Grooved Arete & "variation"

Sunday - well hum! Not all that much done as yet.



April 1976



2nd April 76

65 mph in 9 yr old van to Tremadoc (Dinas y Castell ) involving numerous unintentional (?) oversteer & understeer situations. Flashing another new J strap half way up the tree and watering its roots in full view we decided to start climbing. We did ??? or something and something else near Tensor but failed on the peg for aid bit. J Peake, M Lacey, Jan Ellis.

P.S. Ask him about the bus ride.

J Peake, J Ellis


6th

M.M.C. Midnight Mountaineering Club

Hut <-> Moel Eilio. A beautiful night very clear J.Peake (1hr 20mins)


Week 2nd - 7th April

Liverpool University. Geological mapping on S shore of Llyn Padarn. Many thanks for use of the hut.

M.Basley, J.Peake, D.Booth, J.Phythian

Unfortunately the geology isn't as exciting as the local climbs in fact it's left us very confused. We couldn't cheat either by getting information from the quarry; it's not that they don't have any but it's only available if you were prepared to phone umpteen extensions. The locals aren't much help either, to them all rock types in Llanberis fall into 2 categories :- granite and slate, far from the truth as we discovered!

Between the 4 of us we've scaled local peaks like those behind Pen Gilfach, some nearly 1000' high, but we reckon we've surmounted several thousand feet between us this week.

Those of us working off the road, taking measurements at roadside cuttings were living in fear of taking blows from wing mirrors of passing cars. And there's always the occasional jeer from the "cowboys" of the local road construction companies and the power station at Pen Gilfach.

One of our number who strayed to Cwm y Glo down the road, asked for directions and was subsequently pursued by local women under a hail of "turn lefts and turn rights". He took to his heels and never returned to the village.

Sheep are sometimes so thick under foot that it's hard to make out rock exposures.

Mark Basley

Although fairly complex, the geology of the area turned out to be an interesting challenge, 3 to 1 majority decision against Mr Busby, who of the 4 tended to moan for the greater part of the field week. The weather as a whole turned out to be fine for the trip, it makes a change to go back with a tan rather than a rust! and a good laugh was had by three of us at least.

Probably the most exhilarating geology of the area is the Dolbedarn Hotel, and that of the Vic. The locals seem friendly to say the least, and as closing time is non existent, a riotous time was had by all,....several times! Anyway once you get used to the hotpots with anything that you can find bunged in, and sorted out the relevant knobs on the cooker, and also climbed that b... great hill, one can quite, and did, enjoy themselves.

Thanks again for the use of the hut.

Jude P.

P.S. Can someone tell me what that b... great hill next to the hut is made of, I'd be much obliged.

Dave B.

P.P.S. Why is J Peake called OMAR J? Replies to Liverpool Uni Student's Union letter rack to Miss J Phythian, female letter rack or Mr D Booth - male letter rack.


16/4/76


    J.Clegg

    alt leads

    Vertigo

    R.Longstaff

     

    Bovine

       

    Shake


    M.Hetherington

    alt leads

    Dwn

    D.Armstrong

       

    M.Hetherington

    Vertigo

     

    Oxo


    P.Whillance

    Great Buttress

    S.Clegg

    The Mostest


16.4.76

First visit to Caer Fran since my exile to the frozen north - 1968. A population explosion seems to have occurred in the Llanberis Pass but this did not prevent a trip around the Snowdon horseshoe followed by an ascent of Shadow Wall (Carreg Wastad). I hope this will be only the first of many visits.

Malcolm Hodgins


15th April 76

Arrived on the funky moped in time for a pint.

Spent 15 mins fighting our way through to the bar in the "Pad" and even longer to find a place to stand and drink it! Found Lew and Mary in residence at the hut having been here all week.

Friday - Up at a ridiculously early hour and had arrived at Dinas Cromlech (on the funky moped) before I actually realised just how ridiculously early it really was. Did Pharaoh's Passage - Pharaoh's Wall and Noah's Warning returned to hut for breakfast.... We did!

The Padarn was again bursting at the seams so we settled for the Dolbadarn.

Saturday saw rainclouds over the Pass so we hitched a lift to Gogarth with Roger C (you wouldn't believe it if I told you the time we were up today - in fact I don't believe it). Did Gauntlet and Lighthouse Arete on Castell Helen. Managed to get into the P.L.H tonight and enjoyed a well earned pint.

Sunday - a day of mental relaxation "drove" round to Ogwen and up Tryfan and on to Glyders via Bristly Ridge descent via Devil's Kitchen. Back at the hut Mike and John had arrived via Abergele & Dave (where's the vino) Graham and his better half Barb arrived via Moel Hebog - I took his word for that. Convoy to Cobden's?


17/4/76

    J.R.Clegg

    Central Park

    R.Longstaff

    Bloody Chimney


    M Hetherington

    alt leads

    Gogarth

    D Armstrong

     

    Simulator

       

    Cordon Bleu


    P Whillance

    Creeping Lemma

    S Clegg

    Central Park

     

    Times Square



18/4/76

    J.R.Clegg

    Phantom Rib

    R.Longstaff

    Bole Way

    Mark Hetherington

     

    D.W.English

     

    D.Armstrong

    Dream of White Horses

    M.Hetherington

    Wen


    P.Whillance

    Zeus

    S.Clegg

    Concrete Chimney


Monday

Civilization Returns! up at 9.30 - leisurely breakfast - off to the Pass. Did Bole Way and returned to the hut in plenty of time to pack and set off home. A really enjoyable weekend.

Tonto & Jasper


19/4/76

    J.R.Clegg

    All did Great Slab

    D.W.English

     

    L.Longstaff

     

    Mark Hetherington

     

    M.Hetherington

    Llithrig, Shrike

    D.Armstrong

     

    D.Armstrong

    Piggot's Route

    R.Longstaff

     

    P.Whillance

    alt leads

    Slanting Slab

    S.Clegg

     

    Boldest, Shrike


    Mark Hetherington

    Terrace Crack

    M.Hetherington

     


18/4/76

Arrived at hut via Abergele, being unable to fix faulty water, gas & electricity supplies (no funny comments about faulty water) at Mike's caravan. Found no one here except 79,000 sleeping bags and 3 tons of food. Trevor and the other fella arrived later (Steve the barber) and then hordes of others, knowing only Dave & Barb. Festered round doing nothing except listen to Simon's cries for someone to take him to Cobden's.


19/4/76

Was woken up accidentally by obvious non members of THIS club at 5.50am. Managed to doze back off to dreamland until the great snoring Pig Simon woke everyone else up. It was then at the respectable time of 9.40, so went down to find only 6 left in the hut. Left hut at 10.30, down to Joe's for some laces, picked up a few hitch hikers on route to London, unfortunately they were French so we dropped them off at Capel. Set off from car park at foot of Tryfan at 11.35, great scrambling/ climbing to find ourselves at Adam & Eve at 12.40. Carried on across to Bristly Ridge until finding our own overgrown giant had left the map on top of Tryfan. So yours truly carried TWO sacs repeat, TWO sacs down very dangerous areas until O.G. had caught up again (complete with map!!). Completed Glyder Fach & Glyder Fawr in time to fit Y Garn into the schedule. Down to tea shop at Ogwen and picked up more hitch hikers en route to London, again they were foreign (Yanks) so once more dropped them off at Capel. Back to C.F. via Vaynol in time to see everyone leaving for civilisation. A great day, truly enjoyed by all (2 of us)

M Rees


20/4/76

Set off for Siabod at unknown hour (guess who forgot his watch - same one who left the map on Tryfan). Weather superb, no clouds to be seen. Good ascent round back and up the ridge, stayed festering for 1 hour at the top. Set off down via other ridge, and made sure I had not left the map (I made sure the giant didn't get a second chance of performing yesterdays tricks again). Saw a lad about 100 yards behind who had asked us the way down to Capel when we were just starting the ridge ASCENDING - we kept out of his way. Got back down between pub opening hours - settled for cans of orange.

No hot water in showers at all, nothing coming through so cold showers ended the nice day.

M Rees


21/4/76

Snowdon horseshoe, weather fantastic. Ascended via Llyn Llydaw, Y Lliwedd & hard slog up to Snowdon summit. Sat with bottle of wine amongst millions - descended via Crib Y Ddysgl, Crib Goch, Pyg track. Back via CLOSED Vaynol. Once more a superb day due to extreme weather conditions. Off home, back week on Friday.

M Rees


22.4.76

Arrived out here on Monday night to find the Edwards family in residence. Tuesday went up Moel Hebog. Weather unbelievable. Wednesday went to the Milestone Buttress where Alan climbed (I quote) like "a left handed spastic" as we clawed or way up Pulpit Route (just Diff!!). Festered on Thursday - an educational day - went round the quarry museum - well worth a visit. Leaving for Liverpool tomorrow morning. A lovely few days.

Al & Marg


21st - 23rd

Determined to make the best of a good week - weather wise. We set out from Pen y Gwryd and went up Moel Siabod via Capel.

On Thursday the weather was so good we decided to FESTER and enjoyed an excellent day along the banks of the river Conway and up to the "Fairy Glen" (no fairies there ducky). A liquid lunch in the Silver Fountain was followed by a slow amble back to base.

We hope to ascend Snowdon today by the back way*. If we don't we're going home.

An excellent stay as the weather was terrific.

Dave & Sheila

or

Sheila & Dave

*Is this the tradesman's entrance? or do you invoke the French method of ascending?


19 24 & 25 April

Sat

    Mark & John Mc - Sickle & Sabre Cut

    Colin, Bill & Neil (guest) - Flying Buttress, Spiral Stairs, Nea

    Simon & Geoff - Mur y Niwl & Pinnacle Wall


Sunday

    Bill, Dave G, Mark - Direct Route

    Bill, Mark - Brant

    Simon, Martin L - Diagonal, Brant Direct, Kaisergebirge Wall

    Dave Clarke & Ken - Glyders

    .. .. Neil - Moel Eilio - Telegraph Col

    John Mac returned south & Colin took up as official photographer - really good weather, great meet.

Tonto


25th April - 2 May

Widnes Junior College Party. Outdoor Education Course.

Phil and Sheila Scratton and 7 badly behaved, educationally deprived, remedial students what need compensation for their disadvantaged position in society. (It all happens in the early years of childhood you know!)

The first night was spent in preventing these young louts and delinquents from throwing stones at the sheep. Nothing that Rhodes Boyson can't cure....so he thinks. If it wasn't for all these Marxists, Maoists and Trotskyites in education there wouldn't be any problems like what these poor wretches suffer from. (John Percival suffered 1st injury - knocked ankle - from a flying side tackle from Ann in mixed 5 a side).


Monday

Navigation. Foel Gron - Foel Goch - Eilio and down to quarries. Weather was really great and the inmates are responding to treatment (a good belt round the lughole) P.L.H.


Tuesday

High level walk. Bochlwyd - Bristly Ridge - Glyders and down the kitchen. Another fine dry day. Lost to Joe Brown at darts!! Finished off Mike's nan's madiera cake. P.L.H.


Wednesday

Rock Climbing Introduction. Llanberis. Splendid weather, hot, warm and not a cloud in the sky (or in the lake). All climbed well, Phil saved a life and is still owed his pint reward.

P.L.H.

John's dad came out to rescue him (Mike's nan's madiera cake finished us off!).


Thursday

High Level camp. Llyn Clyd (Y Garn Cwm). Backpacked up to the cwm, played frisby across Llyn Clyd with dinner plates and several casualties were reported. Ended another fine day with a bottle of vino (Capel Curig 1976 vintage) and several cans of varied sustenance. The latter made the packs heavy but it was worth it.

Didn't see Jimmy today?


Friday

Split (trendy word) camp and the toilet roll still hasn't been used! (says a lot for the cooking). In our collective state of constipation we lugged all the gear over Y Garn while Sheila (soft option) and the gang descending via Cwm Cneifio to Nant Peris. Ann, and unwanted Phil dropped down kitchen to Ogwen, tears of self pity wetting his boots for the first time this week. Picked up minibus (big muscles) and bombed round to Nant Peris for others. One casualty - Jean who had a severely inflamed throat (caught a frisby in her gob) and a headache (too much ale). Weather still mild, sunny and clear. A great camp, really enjoyed it. Inmates are now approaching normality and if handled with care and loving kindness (obviously lacking in early years) they might be fit to take their places in our hyper-normal society. There are some signs that some might even reach the state of human perfection displayed by such famous names as Auntie Sheila and Uncle Phil (note the symbolism of the assumed titles).

Returned to hut to find the incredible Tonto having led Cenotaph after just a year's climbing. Tremendous, his grin is as wide as the Padarn lake!! Great! Castle.


Saturday

Set a Navigation Course between Ogwen and Capel and the group (in twos) completed it in ONE HOUR under Naismith's. The weather was diabolical and we (Sheila & Phil) spent the afternoon hunting Y Garn for Jean's purse....but without luck. Sodden and wet through everyone returned to the hut and had a great night's celebration at the P.L.H. We celebrated Tonto's climbing on Cenotaph, Sheila's birthday, the end of a great week and SOUTHAMPTON 1 MAN UTD 0....


Sunday

Cleaned hut WHICH HAD BECOME APPALLINGLY FILTHY over the last 2 months. We all then set off to climb and walk after a really fantastic week.

Phil & Sheila


Friday April 31st

Arrived around dinner time - stocked up on food and PAs and set off down the Pass and up to Dinas Cromlech, where against all better judgement and internal feelings we ended up at the foot of Cenotaph Corner. Before I knew what happened Martin was tied on, gloved up and shoving me all his gear - "off you go then". Any unbelievers can go and see the bloodstains on the jamming holds! The top of the route saw conflicts - fingers shouting let go, ego shouting you've done it lad - hang on. Ego won and the tree was a welcome sight. The conquering heros abseiled down to recover discarded gear (not ours!) which was littering the route. Returning to Llanberis Martin decided that having lived too long he would overshoot a bend at 60! Again our luck was in and we returned safely.

Simon Lewis - (Biscuit awarded)

Martin ("what's up lar") Lacey


Friday April 31st

We two Hazel's arrived via train to Bangor 2hrs 20mins and bus to Caernarfon then Llanberis 1hr 30mins.


30/4/7620

Arrived via long queues at Queensferry (W.J.E's doing) to find Sheila & Phil's party and a very jubilant Simon after leading Cenotaph Corner.



May 1976



1/5/76

Sheila's birthday brought bad weather and bad morning feats of getting yours truly out of bed - again W.J.E's doing. With able assistance of our able climber Tonto, John, Hazel, Hazel & Mike set off for Cnicht in bad weather conditions. After escaping being blown off the summit excellent navigation got us down safely and in very good time. Car decided to pick up a hitch hiker extraordinaire - stone lodged between wheel and chassis making 7mph in 1st gear top speed from Beddgelert to P.Y.G. Decided superstar would not make the Pass so our hero W.J.E. hitched to hut to try to find Phil and minibus - unsuccessful, but he passed us on the way back. Phil took Hazel x 2 in minibus while I was going to try to make the garage at Capel (suspected jamming of handbrake) left P.Y.G. and managed to change to 2ND GEAR!! - then 3rd and 4th so obviously hitch hiker hopped off at P.Y.G. Safe journey back to Caer Fran with car in working order, everyone else soaked through. Nevertheless very enjoyable day with superb dinner? (+ birthday cake c/o Sheila).

Mike Rees

P.S. The excellent navigation was done by the two Hazels from behind who with a wonderful sense of timing and extraordinary E.S.P. managed to direct the lads back down to car!

N.B. E.S.P. commonly known as Silva compass.


Sunday 2nd May

George B arrived earlyish and we again set off for Anglesey and Castell Helen. After an epic abseil during which certain parties nearly died laughing. After all assembling on the bottom ledge - (2 foot below sea level) we split up into two parties. George stating that there was no was he was going to do Lighthouse Arete as the first pitch would have included the 100 metres freestyle pitch. Bill and George decided on Pel, and Simon and Mark did Atlantis (the top pitch was done in a snowstorm!). Retired soaked to the cafe. The poor workers returned home while one loafer who shall remain anonymous for his safety stayed on at the hut to take up his new position as chief cabinet maker. It's not what you know it's who you know hey Mark.


Saturday May 8th

We found ourselves the sole residents of the hut on this beautiful day (so much for the weather forecast!). Up late and off to Anglesey, counted 20 climbers on Wen Slabs, 8 of whom were on our intended route! We gave it a miss (again) and went round to Easter Island Gully instead where we did Big Gut which was much harder than expected. Then raced back to the Pass via the pub in Holyhead for a few drinks with Chris Shannon who we bumped into on Holyhead Mountain. Did Yellow Groove to end the day and returned to the hut for steaks and a quick pint in P.L.H.

P.S. the weather really was incredible! So hot!

S. Lewis

B. Sutherland


Sunday May 9th

John A , George B (who was dropped from a great height onto scree), Pete (Birthday Boy He's 21 you know) and Mark arrived on Sunday morning. Weather was again fantastically hot. Simon and John stayed in the Pass to do Sickle while the other 4 went to Craig yr Ysfa to do Mur y Niwl. Pete and Mark also doing Grimmet after arriving in good time. Great weather again.


Dydd Iau 13ed

Cymerodd dwy aws a hanner i gyrnaedd gwaelod y Gromlech are ol llwyddo o'r diwedd i gael reiden mewn car gyda rhyw ddynes almaeneg Neisiawn hefyd! O'r diwedd cyraeddhasom y gwallod a dechrenom fynd tuag at gernel "Cenotaph Corner".... i ddarfod "Spiral Stairs". Ia wis! As ol hys euthori i ddechrau "Flying Buttress" (y tro cyntaf cmi ddilyn!) Gabeithio wnewch chi ddeacl hyn i gyd Dylich chi. Cymru am byth rydw i'n dwend.

If you require a translation of this masterpiece LEARN WELSH!!! (or ask Fred) (or learn French, German or Italian!) ANONYMOUS.

A Nonymous is revealed John P & Jan


22nd May 76

Glen's Meet (Sat evening)

Club life seemed to resume its normal pace this weekend especially with the arrival of Lew Jones and Denny. Saturday dinner had to be seen to be believed. Glen wandering round in confusion laying out too many dinners much to the delight of Lew and Nick. The rest of the people on the meet were left to consume a small mountain of food were Alan and Margaret Mullock, Lew Denny, Marg Clithero, Kate Jones, Janis and Gary (Glen's mates), Dave Graham and Barbara, Mark Diggins, Martin Lacey, and Simon Lewis.


Sat

    Simon and Martin - Scratch Arete (Tremadoc)

    Lew & Alan - Poor Man's Peuterey & ???

    Mark - Parson's Nose - Snowdon - Crib Goch - Cwm Glas


Sun

    Margaret, Kate, Nick, John, Gary, Barbara - Nantle Ridge. Lew & Denny - Colin Yorke's place.

    Bill & mate John who arrived this morning - Kirkus' Route Glen & Dave - ?

    Mark & Alan - 1st 2 pitches of Kirkus' Direct, last two of Kirkus'

    Martin & Simon - .. .. .. .. .. ..

An excellent meet from Glen


23rd/27th

Made bloody helmets all week.

Mark (headstrong)


29th/5th/76

Set off for Cloggy early - turned back due to inclement weather, changed note on door left for Bill to "Going to Tremadoc" - went to village for food, returned and decided to go to Pass, went down to Llanberis again to hitch to the Pass, after an hour we saw Pete Smith and changed our minds again where we (Mark, Simon & Pete) climbed Fang and The Plum. Arrived back at the hut 11.20 after stopping in Beddgelert for a pint and met Bill and John Craig and Alan and Margaret Mullock who had been rubbing shoulders with the greats in the Padarn.

We arrived out here at 3.20 & did the North Ridge of Tryfan.



June 1976



1st June

Ran the gauntlet of the "real" tourists in Llanberis after a very difficult severe and strenuous drive from the 'Pool. Despite appalling weather conditions we managed a difficult traverse of the P.L.H. bar (unroped). After negotiating with superb skill, several difficult pints of Tartan Export, Dave, Sheila and Mick battled their way up to Caer Fran and bivuaced until 16.00 B.S.T. A sortie was arranged to search for an open chippie, which was soon discovered. By this time the weather had closed and after a lengthy conference, it was decided that the unrivalled view from the bar P.L.H. was such that a repeat ascent was called for. The day ended in a horizontal position. (Sounds like a B.M.C. Conference timetable!!).

D.A.J. S.M.S. M.A.B.

Sunday saw an exodus to the coast (Anglesey) where we soon realised that the weather was even worse. We set off to find Mr Turner & kin who were camped? at Silver Bay. After afternoon tea the leisure centre was sieged but alas the climbing wall was out due to - ping pong! which was perhaps just as well because it looked desperate! Return to hut - change - off to pub(s).

Monday. Usual indecision, everybody off to Tremadoc (along with everybody else!). John Craig went a-wandering. Mick and Simon did Touch and Go (aptly named!!!).

Bill, Alan & Colin did most of Javelin before the rain came (or was it beads?). Margaret M did the crossword (HVS!!). The party democraticaly decided to join the "sailors" at Bala so off we went only to be followed by the rain. At Bala we decided better to get wet inside than out and so we retired to a suitable "Maison". Allan & Marg set off home via Corwen. Bill and John followed on while Colin, Mark and Simon set off back to the hut via certain establishments. Arrived back too late somewhat noisily - apologies for any inconvenience caused!

Tuesday. Dave S, Sheila S and Man Mountain Benny? went to Idwal. Colin (the youth) went walking - (the little knob on the side of the watch is to wind it up!!!). After an exhausting day making skulls Mark did Direct Route Dinas Mot. Geoff arrives.


Wed

    Geoff & Simon Sabre Cut } Cromlech

    Simon & Geoff Cobweb Crack }

    Simon & Mark West Rib } Dinas Mot


Thurs

    Geoff & Simon Brant } Grochan

    Mark & Allan M Western Slabs } Dinas Mot

    Simon & Geoff .. .. }


Fri

    Geoff & Simon & Allan Anthropology

    Yellow Groove


5/6/76

Saturday

    W.Nichols } Park Lane } Gogarth

    J.R.Clegg } Doomsville }


6/6/76

    J.R.Clegg } Shrike } Cloggy

    W.Nichols }

19 - 20 June 76

Dave's birthday meet - or - Approaching The Great Divide.

OLD Dave, Barb, Sheila, did the Snowdon Horseshoe in "record" time* while exchanging pleasantries with a mouse - on the top of Lliwedd - they swear they had no ale in the cafe Oh Aye! Kate strolled up the P y G track to the summit and down the Miner's. Meanwhile back at the ranch, the less sane members Bill, Mark & Simon decided on an alpine day so we set off to the Black Ladders and Western Gully which we now believe to be renamed the N'Gombo River! After a good deal of scrambling and rolling in mud we contacted rock, well almost. Pitch 1 swim up the waterfall via a mud swamp at 50ft etc etc. 6.30 saw the top of the route and the bedraggled pioneers set off on precision bearings in thick mist back to the cwm and so to the car. If it's like that in the Alps - Bermuda here I come! George O and Les arrived for tea and we returned to the pub where we stocked up and returned to the hut where more liquid was consumed and George completed death-defying feats on the roller board.

* Must be joking (see p120)


Sunday and we're all dying!!

11.45am. First major decision of the day - Barb is definitely not doing Bristly Ridge quote "NO WAY" so off to Ogwen for a stroll to clear our heads.


21 June 76

Arrived out with Edge Hill students on sociology "field" week - "called in" on Mark.

Tuesday evening: Nea Mark & Philip

Wed evening : Petite Fleur .. ..

Spent Thursday "cragging" with the Edge Hill mob which ended in a bender in the evening when Mark developed a brewer's complaint...stewed as a newt!! Great week, fine weather cont p94

Phil Scratton


25th June

J.Ellis J.Peake

Rib and Slab, Creagh Dhu


26th June

Having driven 3 times between Rainford and Caer Fran in a week I came back with Sheila on Saturday morning - J.P. (Oh no!!) Simon, Mark (of course) are already out on Cloggy. The weather is fantastic!!


27th June 76

Pinnacle on Tryfan Bill, Phil & Sheila

A world-beater hottest day for 80 odd years!! and a swim in Bochlwyd - no kecks!


26.6.76

    Cloggy

    M.W.Lacey J.Peake - Diglyph & Spillikin

    M.Diggins S.Lewis (alt leads) - White Slab & Longland's - Direct Finish


27.6.76

    Dinas Mot

    M.W.Lacey - Black Spring

    J.Peake

    M.Diggins (alt Leads) - Black Shadow - free

    S.Lewis

    M.Diggins & M.Lacey (alt leads) - Cemetery Gates

    S.Lewis & B.Sutherland - Karwendel Wall?

    J.Ellis J.Peake - Wrinkle - Carreg Wastad 1st pitch.



July 1976



2nd July Friday

    M.Diggins - The Mole - Dinas Mot

    J.Peake


3rd July 76

Nick arrives late Friday night (as usual) 1 o'clock with family.

Nick spent Saturday in Caernarfon and then swam in all the lakes in Wales (well almost). Nick & Sara having an epic in Llynnau Mymbyr (Plas y Brenin) nearly drowning themselves.

Mark, Simon and John (Fort Knox must have another runner) Peake went up to Cyrn Las and did The Grooves in incredible humid temperatures and Sub Tropical climates. This certainly was a day to remember because Simon had his first PEEL* which occurred so: Simon led off on the crux pitch of The Grooves which is a strenuous and sustained pitch with a difficult move half way up, this entails a very long reach to a small finger jam and an inadequate hand jam, in order to reach this you had to be off balance which ment a quick scrabble and a quick heave. Simon made this move pulling up on the jams then his sweaty hands started eeking out of the jams, his feet lost purchase and he began one of the most spectacular lobs I have ever seen. The sight of Simon flying through the air would have got him a gold medal if in the Olympics. Those on the stance awarded him 10 out of 10 for mid flight style, 8/10 for falling 30ft - 40ft. Injuries (insufficient) 2/10 (bruised heel) Recovery rate 9/10. It must be noted that John (Fort Knox) Peake deserves a special mention for ascending the third pitch at the same rate that Simon descended. By the way John says his sticht plate is great but his hand is still burnt?

Really fantastic experience - not to be missed - now thinking of taking up sky-diving. P.S. any offers for a slightly worn climbing rope - ideal for towing cars! - See Fort Knox Peake for details. Superb route

Tonto (feeling Groovy)

What about the "Refusal" on Wrinkle?


17/7/76

    Elliw } J.R.Clegg } alts

    Cupid's Inspiration } J.Lamb }

On Unicorn with Mark Got caught by dark Traversed to the left Above the yawning cleft And got raped by a Rowan tree Twig.

(Sounds extremely sensual - not been climbing with Menlove again?!!)


18/7/76

    Serth } J.Lamb

    Taurus } J.R.Clegg

    Woubits }


25th July 76

Following the great success at Beverly Park of Ann & Martin's wedding we came out to Wales, moving between Bob's at ???, Ian's on Anglesey & the hut.

Tuesday - Phil, Sheila & Bob - Cwm Silyn

Kirkus' Route - Phil & Bob

Wednesday - Phil & Sheila canoed down river from Maentwrg and out to the island off Portmerion.

Thursday - Tremadoc

Aug Ave Aqua Vale - Phil, Sheila & Bob

Friday - Walked in the Rhinogs - superb, desolate.



August 1976



2nd August 76 Arrived at hut via Rhoscolyn to find the Smiths in residence. Brought John & Graham & John out. John & Graham enjoyed their first climbing experiences in Wales. 3rd August Cold & blustery morning, superb afternoon. Wrinkle - John & Graham Flying Buttress - John & Graham Scrogg's Girdle (1st ascent) Phil & John Celebrated in the evening... P & S anniversary... Pete Smith & Lynn & offspring returned home. 4th August For no apparent reason we caught a bout of the M.M.C. sleeping sickness and woke up at 10am to fine, clear weather. After driving over the Pass we had to park beyond the Pen y Gwryd and tramp back to Pen y Pass where we became statistics in a mountain-use survey which was notable for two questions: 1) Have you insured under the Fred Smith "special"? 2) Do you know/ climb with/ sleep with John Peake (Delete where appropriate)? Finally we did the following Horseshoe; John, Phil and Sheila (in under 5 hours!)* Notable for the hoards on Snowdon. Beat that Graham!! [See page 116] Horned Crag - with a "hard" variation on Lliwedd - John and Graham who, on only their second day in Wales had an epic and got down after dark via Snowdon railway track. They started out in true Turner style - "the route wasn't obvious", "couldn't find the middle of the crack"!!! 5th August Making up for the lateness of yesterday morning John had us up before 8 o'clock. Another fine day, clear and warm. We all went round to Ogwen and over Tryfan where John and Graham did Grooved Arete. Sheila continued onto the Glyders while Phil & John climbed a long route on Glyder Fach Main Cliff. We are still not sure which route it was, but it had a desperate 2nd pitch which forced Phil into his EB's and to leave his sac on the stance, to be hauled up later. Still without any clue as to where we were climbing we continued up two fairly troublesome pitches until we reached broken ground and two simple pitches to finish. We finished on the high pinnacle of Bristly Ridge to the apparent amazement of the typical August wandering suicide fraternity (Tuff shoes and rolled umbrellas). A superb day. John, Graham & John have gone home - the latter two after an unforgettable first experience in & of Wales. Tonight we are to be wined and dined at Barbara James' and if she can cook half as well as she can climb we'll be laughing! 6th August Spent the best part of the morning cleaning the hut which is again filthy - especially the floors throughout. I wish people would clean up and brush out before they leave. Anyway - went to Pass to do some abseiling in preparation for Lundy!! Next week we are off canoeing and then a week climbing in Glencoe. Can't be bad! Tara! Phil & Sheila 24/25th July25 Nick's Meet held at Cerrig y Adar Surely the largest meet yet recorded. 26 for Saturdays activities. These, though not in the true M.M.C. Mountaineering spirit were varied and enjoyed by all. Sailing, fishing, swimming, instruction (by Glen) in the fine art of kite flying, bicycling (Ray) and even walkers!! Dave, Barbara and Brenda (Barbara's sister) who walked along the beach cliffs and were then barred by "private" keep out notices. - what about the water?!! 8th August After searching Llanberis and Capel Curig for size 7-8 childs boots (to no avail) we, or rather Nick, decided we would walk to Bochlwyd. After having lunch by the water's edge we continued up and descended Heather Terrace to Land Rover. Sara had to be carried over final descent as Nick was frustrated by her pace but otherwise she would have walked all the way. Not bad for 3yrs 3mths and 4yrs 6mths. 28/8/76 Jelly Roll } J.Lamb, J.R.Clegg Scorpio }

September 1976



3/9/76 Bluebell Cracks - Dinas Mot J.Peake, J.Ellis, S.Milnes 5hr epic - 18 pitches & 3 persons & one 120ft rope. Thur Walking in Ogwen, thence to camp there for the weekend. J.Peake (brown 2 man Campri tent) 4 Sept 76 Froggat Meet M.W.Lacey, S.Lewis P.Smith Routes Great Froggat include 3 Pebble Slab, Brown's Eliminate & a few others. Upon being denied access to Stanage and restraining Simon from "putting one on the warden" we went to Stoney. Simon had to be lowered off a modest VS ??? surely a most undignified experience. The meet could well have been described as an off day. The afore written scrawl is entirely fictitious and is of the author's own guilty mind. The truth of the matter is that one M.W.Lacey could be seen sweating and foaming at the mouth overcome with fear on a Severe! Suffice to say that the rope was so tight it was humming in the wind! The afore mentioned Simon Lewis is one good lad! please ignore any unfounded gossip that may at this moment be circulating about the club! Signed A.N.Admirer 19/9/76 W.J.E & M.R. arrived at 6.00pm (estimated time), exactly 1/2 an hour before setting out from Liverpool - probably due to John forgetting his watch!! Looked at our map (estimated) - once more John forgot the map. Found our estimated position - one small hut above Llanberis (estimated) with rats in. Managed to get up the dirt track that used to be a road to the hut - probably due to superb car - perhaps it was a Renault? - estimated of course. 20.9.76 Lack of watch meant an estimated Alpine start (3.00am), then went to Joe Brown's (doesn't he open early!) where Mike bought a pair of EBs and a Willans sit harness on impulse (is he the last of the big spenders or just a continuation of the long line of instant hard men?). Despite early start rain (which unfortunately was not estimated but real) sent us scurrying round to Tremadoc where an unpleasant couple of hours was (were!!) spent looking for the start of Christmas Curry (beads!). Having found a likely looking area I proceeded to climb to below an overhang which looked decidedly unsevere. I remember thinking that I hadn't found it this hard before when Mike asked me if there was a local climb called Fang. After a hurried retreat we eventually found the correct start. We ate dinner in the car in pouring rain, then set off to find Oberon, which had puddles on the slab. A couple were climbing the VS in the corner, and the man remarked as he set off to lead in his new EBs "you really need boots in these conditions". This leader then proceeded to fall of, so after we had climbed the first pitch we dropped a rope down to them. P.S. Mike has told me to describe how he expertly negotiated the intricate problems of the best climb on the cliff in the most difficult of weather conditions but I won't cos it's all lies. - No it's not - John did a John Peake and decided to climb in the wet - he wasn't leading!! After seeing the other leader fall, well - beads. Both John & I romped up and left John's sling for the nice but unfortunate couple coming up the VS (the least we could do for an obvious pair of cretins). 21/9/76 Had another Alpine start (estimated 2.30am) then as the weather was so good did a tour of Snowdonia in the car to find two daft twits climbing Nea. Decided not to join them and found a lot of mountaineers festering in Joe Brown's - disgusting on such a beautiful day - come back John Peake all is forgiven. Persevered to try to find something to do. Were forced home at an estimated time of 10.00pm - (isn't the 6 o'clock news late these days?). Fortunately the rats haddn't eaten our dinner, so we sat down for the first time today and ate it. Well it's getting dark now so must press on - see you soon, Mike & John P.S. Thanks for the use of the green waterproof jacket. Sept 24th Pete Rat's Meet HAPPY BIRTHDAY BILL. Thirteen rats assembled at Caer Fran after a few pints of poison at the Padarn. Phil & Sheila rat scuttled of to Bangor to avoid sleeping in the nest. The "A" party (Martin & Simon) went to Anglesey in search of blue skies - which they found - (well it wasn't raining anyway!). After discussions on the tidal conditions decided to do Blanco on Castell Helen. The sun stayed off all day until we had completed the route!! Poor old Martin had an "off" day and blamed it on his aching old joints - ahhh. The sensible ones (A+ party) walked up the Devil's Kitchen, where landscape gardeners have been at work, and up Y Garn. Marg had her first map and compass lesson, to the amusement of everyone else. Rather a misty and, latterly, rainy walk not very pleasant. The Z party had a dreadful day & had to retire off Cneifion Arete due to lousy weather. That's us folks!!! Bill, Barbara James and Pete went to Tremadoc and did Scratch and Clapton's Crack. The weather deteriorated there too. An excellent meal (Ta Lyn!) was followed by a few pints in the Padarn. 26/9/76 After wasting half the day waiting for Phil & She to come from Bangor we decided to dispense with their help and Hazel, Pam, John & Mike went climbing at Capel - Cobden's for light lunch - Little Tryfan. When Little Tryfan was found, underneath the Army, we decided to climb Tryfan. Billy Poser jumped across Adam & Eve to the delight of the crowd. Alan, Marg, Len & Mary went to Llangollen to do canoeing, Phil, Sheila, Dave, Barbara, Kate went round to Ogwen - Elidir & Y Garn. Bill, Simon, Pete - Anglesey - Dde - Wen Slab. Martin - Tremadoc.

June 1976



October 2

Alastair Allan on a quiet trip from Labrador and Newfoundland talked me into coming to the rain - met at P y P for cuppa then down to the Pass for a couple of good easy rambles in the rain. Not many idiots about. Then to the hut for a shower, grub and wine.

TALES OF BEATRIX SCROTUM

Story one: Fredy

This story is of a group of rats who live in a little house, on a hill, by a stream amongst the flowers and trees in a far off land with a strange and often fearsome houseparent called Fredy. It is a story of great wonderment of how Fredy went off to the wars to fight the Big Ogre Rat, Mucky. The other rats include Omar, Chalkie, Uncle Nick, Hazel, King Rat (Billbo) and the Ram.

The Big Ogre Rat, Mucky, did not only live in the rat house for he often lived in another rathouse in the far off land of Carlisle. The other rathouse was not like the house in the story as it had no nice flowers or trees, and, it is said, the conversations of the rats there were very serious. It is said that the rats in that house had a very special language called "Ardrok" and they had a special message and sign by which they knew each other...when they visited other rathouses they would write things like "Grooves" or "Shrike" and then a special name which was given to them by the Authority. This ment that the place referred to belonged to them...it is said that you could go to these places, usually near roads and amongst rocks and there you would find holes in the rock and many rat droppings in cracks and on ledges... One year in the hot summer when many rat droppings lay in the heat, Mucky and his brothers and sisters came to the rathouse on the hill, by the stream. They did not stay long but made such a mess of the rathouse that many wild fredies came to live in the rathouse (our hero, Fredy, was tamed from wild in the days when the Great Prince Tradition ruled the country). Anyway, our hero, Fredy, decided to wage war on Mucky and his band of fredies. He lay poison for the wild fredies and then warned Mucky that he had been reported to the rulers of the rathouse: Billbo and his Committee of Elders. The fredies ate up all of the poison (a special mixture of food made by Chalkie and which he had grown immune to) and they died. But Mucky escaped, for he could go on rocks which none of the rats could... The wise people of the Committee of Elders decide to try to draw Mucky from his extreme perch... they called an R.G.M. and threatened to put up the fees!!


15-17 October

Large party at hut this weekend consisting of

Friday evening: Phil, Sheila & guests, Trev & Alison, Barb, Dave & Simon, John (Billy Ed) Edwards.

Sat: John Peake, Phil Mc K, Fred, Bett & guests

Sun: Bill, George, Mark & sweetheart?

Saturday saw Phil, Sheila & guests in the Carneddau along with Dave (New Breeches) & Barb.

John Peake, Billy Ed and Simon decided to educate Billy in the joys of climbing in the Pass. Where he proceded to frighten the life out of me. Calculation: 16 stone falling 30ft = Bad Burns! Luckily the answer was never put to the test and Crackstone Rib, Skylon & Wrinkle fell to this strange party.

Trevor took his young woman to Bangor C & A after a tumble on the moped to find she had broken a finger!

Sunday - to be completed.

Sunday would have continued but it didn't happen. This is an imaginary write up about an imaginary Sunday. Imagine Fred, Gene, Keith & Pete climbed an imaginary Wrinkle. Simon imagined he walked to the Cromlech. Other fantasies consisted of Trevor and John attempting Ledge Way on the Grochan. Meanwhile Alison and Bett remained in the hut in bed.

Phil & She & party climbed diverse routes on Little Tryfan and after a noon storm went up the back of Moel Siabod hallucinations prevailed but we kept our heads!!


22 & 23 Oct 76

Sat: Simon & John went up Crib Goch and along to Snowdon and down to hut in severe conditions. Some members were put off by these adverse conditions and slunk off to Caernarfon. No names will be mentioned - to save embarrassment to the people concerned.

Mark & Geoff walked up Moel Eilio and onto Snowdon. John Ed walked up Snowdon via a new route to be named the Edwards Route - the first 9 miles take in the roads between Bangor & Llanberis!

People in attendance include George, Lesley, Eric, Georgina, Simon, John B, Geoff & John E

* Technical note - Clever readers may be able to deduce the names of the festerers by careful study of the above text.

This weekend Sunday actually happened - despite being an hour late. John Peake arrived at 10 o'clock - or was it 9 - anyway Billy Ed & Omar set off on Omar's new bike (the lad's a fool) to do Dives & hard finish. While George Eric Georgina Simon & John went to Dinas Cromlech and did a siege ascent of Flying Buttress, and Parchment Passage. George (I wonder why the knees of these breeches are always wearing out) Bowden was heard to comment "If you write this up you'll get a black eye!"


24 - 27th Oct

Eaglesfield School Group

Arrived on Sunday evening after a wonderfully wet weekend camping at Capel. Attempted Moel Siabod on Sunday but retreated 500ft from the top - wind & rain. Monday - Excellent day on Cnicht weather not good but little rain. Tuesday - Fun and games climbing on Little Tryfan (met Mark Diggins with I.M.Marsh crowd). Wednesday - Pen y Pass to Glyder Fach to Cern Cneifio - Devil's Kitchen - Cwm Idwal - Ogwen. Good day much of which was in cloud. Thursday off camping again after a good week with lads - nice group and we have all enjoyed ourselves.

Thanks for the use of the hut!

J Mc Bean


28th - 31st October

Widnes Junior College group with Sheila & Phil arrived out.

Despite the hassles of many Yanks being rescued by the nick of their noses and Alan Browns Invitation we decided to go round Cwm Tryfan via Bochlwyd and the dear old Bwylch itself!! Well that was Friday - a day in which anything might happen?!!

By Saturday others were at the hut and our party took a first taste of summits on Siabod whilst Billy Ed took a few first gulps of "lobbing" on Sabre Cut - perhaps like others he should look to improve Better Things by sundry Dives!! Anyway it all seemed highly jovial after an after hours session in the Castle!!!

Sunday - the whole group climbed in Llanberis - superb day.


21st Oct - 1st Nov

Hazel & Mike arrived to meet Phil & Sheila's party, Billy Ed & Tonto & Bill.

Saturday saw Mike's first climbs in the Pass - will I ever go again? Set off with Billy Ed to do Nea - a really enjoyable climb despite the cold. Went in search of Tonto & Bill on Cemetery Gates. They weren't there so Billy Ed picked the nearest route which happened to be Sabre Cut. Billy Ed led off and somehow managed to do the first pitch with support (moral) from Tonto and Bill. After the 3rd pitch Billy Ed again went up the crack to find half way up there was no way. Fortunately our heros Bill & Simon were at the top to let down a top rope. The next thing Billy Ed was playing at "lobbo" - a daring feat which caused a few beads. The day was drawing to a rapid end, so we decided to kick Sabre Cut in touch and did Spiral Stairs in the dark, an experience not to be missed - many thanks to Bill & Tonto.

Sunday was a mass exodus to Tremadoc. Mike & Billy Ed did Poor Man's Peuterey - superb climb. Hazel did Moel Siabod without moans on Saturday and climbed (or was it belayed) with Phil & Sheila's party on Sunday.

Monday was a lie in (for a change). Where to now St Peter?

Mike & Hazel

Billy Ed - left gloves with first aid - Mike



November 1976



6th Nov

Trevor's Meet - Well attended. The poor weather in the close proximity spurred us on to the equally poor weather on Anglesey. Phil dropped Sheila off at Ian's then proceeded to convince the rest at South Stack cafe that climbing was not possible. With easy crag climbing not available we attempted Llangefni climbing wall directissima - thoroughly enjoyable and worthwhile visit but more success would have been produced climbing in the rain.

Trouble arrived in the form of Nick with the result that Simon's climbing career was placed in doubt by quote "Housemaid's elbow".


7th Nov

Another wet day had the same response as the previous day (what happened to the "once bitten twice shy"?) with two disastrous exceptions

    1. The climbing wall was fully booked.

    2. The cafe was shut

A walk down the steps revealed the gate at the bottom locked (frustration in every direction!) but did allow a fool/brave man watching as a climber battled with Green Slab.

Retired to Bangor where Phil was caught with his pants down.


13th Nov

Decided to introduce Stephen to "proper" rock climbing. Unfortunate mistake of joining chain up Flying Buttress behind a very slow party so I became chock extractor become extra hold on final chimney. Then decided to jump a few grades and did Dives.


14th Nov

John Peake arrived, much to the relief of the moped, and we set off for Pen y Pass. Stephen and I did Snowdon via the P y G track then came back via the Miner's, John did the reverse. Quite good snow on top, must be the first members in snow this year.


20th Nov 76

After arriving at 4.30am a late start was in order - suffice to say it was some time after 8.30am. Bill, Mark, Simon, Dave, Graham (not the new Pres), Eric, Georgina & John Ed all left for the Pass leaving Geoff to prepare some culinary delights. Rumour has it that J.P. arrived at 8.30 and seeing the obvious inactivity left again.

Mark & Bill did Hazel Groove which Mark reckons to be 5.8 at least. Simon & John Eric & Geoff did Nea. Graham & Dave did Wrinkle & Crackstone Rib. J.Peake S.Burns Rib and Slab.


21/11

Dawn rose - Simon didn't ('til 11) committee member's privilege.

Eric & Georgina off to Cloggy, rest to Anglesey (losing J.P. somewhere on the way). Mark & Bill did Pantin, Simon, John and Geoff did Puffin & Graham & Dave were first seen Pantin but ended up Puffin.

Followed to Holyhead couldn't find any cars J.P J.E.


27/11

John Ed did Mynydd Mawr, a 2,300 disguised Monroe.



December 1976



4/12/76

Meet consisted of Mark, Dave, Graham, Bill, Simon, Eric, Colin, Georgina & Kate.

Georgina & Kate - Telegraph Col - Moel C - Cloggy & back to hut to prepare the meal.

Eric & Colin swear they achieved a nearly ascent of Eastern Gully on Cloggy - but were forced to retreat when they ran out of scaffolding. (note for collectors of gear - three slings left on retreat).

Mark, Simon, Bill, Dave & Graham went to Black Ladders and did Central Gully. On approaching the crux the boys decided El Pres should go out in a blaze of glory - so he was issued with gear, tied on to the sharp end of the rope and launched! The flag he was carrying came in useful for as he sank out of sight in the powder snow he waved furiously to let us know he was OK. The Pres proceeded to defy all the laws of gravity and actually made it to the belay (the coward). The route was quickly polished off and the team returned in the strong moonlight to the motor. Snow conditions not very good - all powder but plenty of it.


11.12.76

Snow much reduced because of the rain during the week, but despite a late start Bill, Simon, Dave and John made their way to Cloggy, and arrived at the bottom at about 2.00pm - plenty of time for a route - 2 hrs at least. Boomerang Gully was chosen and the approach was excellent snow. The gully was interesting, and really good, greatly enjoyed by all members of the party. Quote of the day came from Bill "These Chouinard ice hammers are too good" though he never had a chance to use it, I had it. (Thanks to various members for loan of axes this weekend). Inevitable descent in the dark led to Bill's second fall of the day, both on the same knee (ice was not good to him today - read on).

Retired to P.L.H. where we were joined by John Peake. Bill went to Ruthin for a party.

Ian Wright and associates spent the night here after a dinner.


12.12.76

2.00am - "bad news boys" - Bill arrived back from party with half a car, the remainder being attached to a Ruthin wall.

Morning (meaning daylight - or rather later eg 10am) revealed the true extent of the damage, and Bill had used up another life. A despondent Bill limped back to Liverpool (hopefully!) while the arrival of reinforcements, John, Alan, and Sheila and good weather incited the desertion of Simon & John from their President. John Peake and friend had left long ago to do the second ascent of the season of Boomerang.

The reinforcements were not in good health (must be mobilising the Home Guard), but bravely proceeded to Cwm Glas. Alan & John E did Parsley Fern Gully, Simon & Dave did the next gully on the right because it "looks doable". John B played yo yos in the gully, giving up halfway with fatigue, then going back up again to rescue a crampon. Descent by all parties was P.F.Gully. Sheila traversed around into the next Cwm.

This was a really good weekend and answers all critics who say that mountaineers must be mad. The answer is "not necessarily", it would be too much of a lie to say "no".


Sunday 12th Dec.

Edge Hill College of H.E.

Phil came down with 7 students, six "first timers" in the hills. Snow looks good - met a jubilant Billy Ed after his first snow weekend.


Monday

Up P y G track to Snowdon col then down Zig Zags - snow is good but we had to take time and care - the gullies were crying out for occupants!


Tuesday

Climbed in Pass all day: superbly mild with snow retreating off hills.


Wenesday

Off home - more snow now falling on the tops - could be good for Alan's Meet - Thanks for hut.

Phil Scratton


Thursday

Pen y Pass & Lliwedd - Snowdon - P y G. Spent day in blizzard. Avalanche on Lliwedd. Much fresh and unstable snow. Never known anything like it in Wales. Don't bother going to Scotland this year.

Steve Burns, J.P.


Fri 16th

Snow still unstable but consolidating. Slabby nature due to underlying layer of ice. Hut - Crib y Ddysgl - Hut, Brocken Spectre and Glory Halo observed*. Snow trecherous the gullies are waiting to be climbed tomorrow though. J.Ellis J.Peake

*Doesn't count unless you give map reference.


Sat

Alan's Christmas Meet.

A large proportion of the "active" membership (waist down) arrived out for the Mullock's Christmas Knees Up.

Bill and Simon slogged solo up Left Hand Trinity - snow soft, deep, etc.

Dave and Barbara short-stepped their way up Parsley Fern Gully after Dave had attempted to illicitly rape Nick's landrover.

Pete and Eric, so rumour has it, visited a gully and retreated?

Alan, Phil, Sheila, Mike, Collette and Nick went up into the Nameless Cwm arete Nick tobogganed and the rest glissaded, ice breaked and rolled (forward!) their afternoon away.

Alan and Phil paid a visit to a short (300' - 400') gully and slogged their way up into the Nameless Cwm. "Billy Ed" who prefers to be called John, went over to Devil's Kitchen and back to Ogwen via the most direct route off Y Garn.

Meanwhile Di and Margaret prepared Christmas Dinner via a whole bottle of Martini.

The dinner and festivities were great and as a reward for being good some of us had a Magical Mystery Tour in the landrover.


Sun

The usual argy-bargy ensued as decisions were hard to come by.

Bill and George went off to Cloggy.

Nick, Di, Pete, Len, Mary went to Moel Hebog.

Barbara, Dave, Eric, Alan and Margaret went home.

Phil, Sheila and Mike went round to Cwm Glas (Phil got his way again!). The snow and ice is now melting...

Many thanks to Alan and Margaret for a really good meet, "Billy Ed" (prefers to be known as John) Get Well Soon. Happy Christmas to all our sponsors. (Anyone want a totally inefficient, almost new, hardly used fire?)


24th - 27th December - CHRISTMAS

A Brown, P.Barton, J.Booth,

Friday - Met Alan at Pen y Pass but as usual he had something else to do so the rest plus Jim ventured onto snowy Snowdon and failed miserably because of very packed ice & lack of ice axes making ascent impossible (on foot - all fours perhaps). Friday night is much of a blank in our memories due to overuse of the Padarn. Evidence being John's bad lead & Alan & I's cuts on hands, head and bruised elbow.


Saturday.

Christmas day.

Events - sleep, eat, drink.

John managed to leave the plastic bag of gibblets inside the turkey Christmas Dinner - superb - the gibblets however were voted a miss. Rolled down to the Padarn for 1 or 2...


Sunday

Up early (10.00am) - Met Jim again & zoomed up the Pass to try our hand at Snowdon again - this time equipped with all the modern equipment of alpenstocks & clinkers and 13/8" rope. Alan, as usual I fear found the pace a little too hot - but John was unrelentless, insisting he was trying to rid himself of a cold (I refrained from using the word sweating). Once on the summit the fun started - descent was by a well snowed over Watkin Path and a devious route was engineered on snow slopes throughout - totally absorbing. Alan - again looking for a short cut said he was going down to join a climber's track down by Lliwedd - we decided to join him - unfortunately - we should have left the silly bastard to go down and kill himself. Down 2 gullies, traverse 2 more with some very steep verglas & snow pitches later we hit the climber's traverse, not before Alan tried to swing down the biggest gully on Lliwedd & commit yet another kamikazi act - we were ribbing him somewhat, but didn't expect him to crack. Back to the hut for the norm - more food and beer.

Merry Christmas to anybody who reads this, Happy New Year probably by the time you've finished.

Anyway back to sunny Cumbria - leave this dark dark foreign land where the locals mutter behind 'y back.

Cheers

J.Booth P.Barron. A.Brown


29-12-76

Jones family, Mullock family & Mark Diggins Eric & Georgina in residence.


30-12-76

Into Craig Lloer in foul weather which eventually cleared to give a good but windy day. Lot of snow (fresh) on hard- packed base. Gully? we did was a face really which was about to fall down. Then onto top of Pen yr Ole Wen and back to Ogwen. Day has now been called "dodge the avalanche day".


31-12-76

Last day of year and along Crib Goch - much snow, many bumblies and great photos. Descent via railway track to cottage after crossing the "Great Bog" in the dark. Di and Margaret went grass tobogganing with kids (Sports Council please note).

P.S. Helen & Dave arrived on 30th and were in the above party for the 31st.


New Year's Eve

The following asterisks are a key

    Mark *** * on gin

    Alan *** ** on whiskey

    Margaret */***** *** on anything

    Di * **** sick (technicolour yawn)

    Nick ******************** etc ***** hangover yawn)

    Helen **/***** (minor no brain ****** not been seen since Dave ** damage)

    Eric ***/******/****

    Georgina ***/*****

N.B. At 19.00 (M.M.C. Standard Time) Fred's Fabulous Fan blew itself to pieces. Well that's a slight exaggeration but the plug started sending streams of smoke up into the rarefied atmosphere. The circuit (to put it mildly) was being somewhat overloaded. DO NOT USE THIS APPLIANCE* (seriously!). Nick's removed the plug - he had to it'd melted in all directions. Luckily for us we had Nick's patent hut warmer with us, but until something's done, it's going to be a cold, lonely winter without heat.

* Such melodrama!